Making an Aliyah

Now that I’ve sorted through the thousands of photos & videos from our three-week trip to Israel, I’m ready to dig in & dish out. Selfishly, I want to keep the trip alive but in doing so, hope to inspire you to pack up & visit the magical land of Israel.

We began our adventure with an Aliyah to Jerusalem & no, I didn’t make that up because it was August & August is the “Month of Alya.”

An Aliyah is “the act of going up”—that is, towards Jerusalem. When one makes an Aliyah, they are moving to the Land of Israel. It is one of the most basic tenets of Zionism. The opposite action, emigration from the Land of Israel, is referred to in Hebrew as yerida (“descent”). FYI, October 16th was Aliyah Day so there you have it, this post is beshert. A bit late but beshert nonetheless.

We arrived in Jerusalem on a Saturday, just on the heels of Shabbat. Most everything in Israel shuts down in observance of Shabbat which begins at sundown on Friday & ends at sundown on Saturday. Even secular jews relish in this tradition with most, ceasing work for those 24 hours. In our ever-connected, always on & never stopping world, I still find it unbelievable & admirable. How is it that a whole country can manage to take a pause & relish in the company of family & friends without the disruptions of the world around them?

Arriving on a Saturday also allowed us to experience Jerusalem in all its glory. The juxtaposition of Hasidic Jews dressed in almost regal robes wrapping up prayer at the Kotel (the Westen Wall). All while locals & tourists young & old were getting ready to start their Saturday night fun.

We hailed a taxi from the airport & arrived at our hotel, the The YMCA Three Arches, about 45 minutes later. The hotel came recommended by a friend who frequents Jerusalem & loves it for its location. I can see why. It is walking distance to everything: the Old City, Ben Yehuda “Midrachov” promenade, Alrov Mamilla Avenue Mall, & across the street from the historical King David which, it equals in historical importance.

That said, all that I heard & read about the hotel proved to be true. It’s a strange mix of regal & rough. Maybe rough is a strong word but, after entering the gorgeous mosaic covered lobby, you expect something amazing throughout. The common spaces like the lobby, arch-covered courtyard & sunny patio are magnificent. The rooms however, are another story.

Designed by Arthur Loomis Harmon, the architect of the Empire State Building, the YMCA Three Arches, with its 152 ft high central bell tower, art galleries & strong symbolism, is a landmark that’s recognized all over the world. Even if you don’t stay there, make sure you visit for panoramic views of Jerusalem’s old city.

Entrance to the tower is free for guests & a few shekels for visitors. The restaurant where we had breakfast each morning surrounded by fragrant flowers, fountains, & curious cats overlooks the King David Hotel & serves up delicious Israeli dishes. It feels straight out of a fairy tale & yes, the location can’t be beat.

That said, the rooms are depressing & in desperate need of updating. I’ll leave it at that as it proved to be a great choice for us & our small party for 5 nights.

We were exhausted but pumped so we dropped our stuff & quickly joined the crowds heading through the Manilla Mall towards the Old City & the Kotel. Last time I was in Jerusalem, Mamilla was nothing more than a gritty & nondescript neighborhood that faced the Old City’s Yafo Gate entrance. Today, it is home to Jerusalem’s sexiest open-air shopping mall, all gleaming Jerusalem stone & designer brand names like Versace & Rolex. The mall was abuzz with activity & I was excited to see Phil’s & Jacob’s reaction as we neared the Old City & what had once WOWed me.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Mamilla facelift is that you can still see the surgeon’s markings. Every single stone along one section of the mall is numbered. The numbered stones compose one side of a historic building that was dismantled from a nearby location & rebuilt within the mall, presumably to give the complex character. The building in question, Stern House, merited preservation for having briefly sheltered Theodor Herzl, the father of modern Zionism.

We entered through Jaffa Gate, the main entrance to the Old City, meandered through the Christian, Jewish, Muslim, & Armenian Quarters & finally arrived at the Kotel where Jacob’s Bar Mitzvah ceremony was to take place a short 2 days later.

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem!